Concrete Coatings Built to Last in the Northwest
We grind, coat, and finish concrete inside and out: garages, patios, basements, driveways, and walkways, plus polished concrete when you would rather keep the slab you have. An epoxy base, a polyaspartic topcoat, and the prep work that makes both last.
Licensed, Bonded, & Insured · Washington Contractor License NEXTGEL746NE
- Veteran owned and operated
- Free on-site estimates
- Full grind prep, every job
- Moisture-vapor barrier first coat
Concrete We Coat
If it is concrete, we can probably finish it. Each surface gets a different build, because a driveway in full sun and a basement slab pushing moisture are not the same problem.
Garages
The surface we coat most. Ground down to bare concrete, sealed, and topcoated so hot tires, jack stands, and dropped tools do not take it apart.
Learn morePatios
Outdoor concrete finished with texture for grip and a polyaspartic topcoat that holds its color in the sun.
Learn moreBasements
A sealed, easy-to-clean floor for below-grade space, with the moisture testing that basements specifically need before anything goes down.
Learn moreDriveways
Full vehicle weight, full sun, full weather. Driveways get the most durable build we install, with texture for traction on any slope.
Learn moreWalkways
Entries, paths, and steps finished with a high-grip texture, tying the approach to the house into the same finish as the patio or driveway.
Learn moreConcrete Polishing
No coating at all. The slab itself is densified and mechanically polished through progressive diamond grits until the concrete is the finished floor.
Learn moreFinishes to Choose From
Once we know what the surface has to put up with, you pick how it looks.
Chip Flake
Color flakes broadcast into the wet base coat, then sealed under a clear topcoat. Hides dust, tire marks, and small debris better than anything else we install.
Solid Color
One even color across the whole slab, no flake or texture. Clean and simple, and usually the most affordable way to get a sealed floor.
Metallic
Metallic pigments swirled into the resin for a marbled, almost three-dimensional look. No two floors come out the same.
Quartz
Colored quartz broadcast into the resin for a dense, stone-like texture. The most slip-resistant option, which is why it goes outside most often.
How a Job Actually Goes
Most jobs are prepped and coated over two to three days, with a short cure after that before the surface goes back into full service.
Free Estimate
We come look at the space, take measurements, read the slab for moisture, and go over finishes in person.
Surface Prep
We grind the concrete back to clean, bare slab. Old coatings, oil, and grime have to come off here, or nothing we put down will stick.
Moisture-Vapor Barrier
The first coat on the bare slab, always. It blocks the ground moisture that would otherwise work its way up and push the finish back off.
Color & Build Coats
The epoxy base coat goes over the barrier, then flake or quartz if that is the finish you picked, then the polyaspartic topcoat.
Cure & Walkthrough
We walk the finished surface with you, point out anything worth knowing, and cover how to care for it while it finishes curing.
Every Floor Starts With a Moisture-Vapor Barrier
That third step is the one most people have not heard of, and it is the one that decides whether the floor stays stuck to the concrete.
It keeps moisture from pushing the floor loose
Moisture rises up through concrete as vapor all the time, whether you can see it or not. Seal a floor without planning for that and the vapor collects underneath until it lifts the coating away. Blistering, bubbling, and edges peeling up are all the same problem. The barrier stops it at the slab.
Most slabs around here need one
We sit on high water tables and it rains most of the year, so high moisture readings are normal here rather than unusual. Plenty of older homes were also poured without any plastic sheeting under the slab, and there is no way to add that once the concrete is down. Going over the top is how we handle it.
It handles what the moisture carries up
Moisture brings minerals up out of the concrete and leaves them right where a coating needs to stick. Over time that wears down an ordinary primer's grip, which is how a floor can look fine for a couple of years and then start letting go. A moisture-vapor barrier is made to bond to that surface anyway.
It gives the color coats a smooth start
Bare concrete is porous and holds a lot of tiny air pockets. As a coating cures over it, that air works its way out and can leave pinholes behind in the finish. Sealing the slab first means every coat above it goes down over one consistent surface.
Why We Build on Epoxy
An epoxy base with a polyaspartic topcoat, spread over two to three days. Here is what that extra time gets you.
We time the topcoat to the base coat
The polyaspartic topcoat goes down while the epoxy underneath is firm but still curing. In that window the two layers bond chemically and cure as one system, not two separate films. Timing it is much of why we take three days.
Epoxy gives us time to do the flake right
Epoxy stays workable long enough to roll the base out evenly and spread flake across the whole floor before it starts to set. Even coverage really comes down to how much working time you have, and epoxy gives us plenty of it.
It soaks in before it sets
Grinding opens up the surface of the slab so a coating has something to grip. Epoxy stays liquid long enough to sink down into that texture and lock in, rather than sitting on top of it.
Recent Work
One garage, start to finish, in the order it happened.
Questions We Get a Lot
The things people ask us at the estimate, answered before you have to ask.
How long does the coating take to fully cure?
The install itself runs two to three days, and the floor keeps curing after we leave. Light foot traffic comes back first, then shelving and furniture, and vehicles last, because tires put the most stress on a coating that is still hardening. Temperature and humidity move that schedule, so we give you the real dates for your floor at the walkthrough rather than a number off a datasheet. Parking on it early is the one mistake that is genuinely hard to undo.
Will it work in an unheated garage or a cold Puget Sound winter?
Yes, and it is part of why we topcoat with polyaspartic. It keeps curing at temperatures where epoxy slows right down, so a cold slab does not stop the system from setting up properly. Most garages around here are unheated, so this is the normal case for us rather than the exception. We read conditions at the estimate and schedule around a real cold snap instead of pushing through it.
Is there a strong smell during installation, and how long does it last?
There is a noticeable odor while we are rolling coats, strongest on the base coat and topcoat days. We keep the space ventilated as we work, and it drops off quickly once each coat sets. If the garage is attached, keep the door into the house shut through the install and the early part of the cure, and you will barely notice it inside.
Is the coating safe for pets and kids once cured?
Once it has fully cured, yes. A finished floor is a sealed, inert surface with no seams or grout lines for dirt to collect in, which is much of why these go into kitchens and basements and not just garages. Keep pets and kids off it during the install and through the cure window, while the coating is still soft and off-gassing. If slip resistance is the concern, quartz gives the most texture of the finishes we install, and flake adds some as well.
How long will the floor last, and what is covered under warranty?
How long it lasts comes down to prep far more than to product. A slab ground back to bare concrete and sealed with a moisture-vapor barrier first will outlast the same coating rolled over a dirty or damp surface, which is why we do not skip either step. We are licensed, bonded, and insured in Washington under contractor license NEXTGEL746NE. Warranty terms come in writing with your quote, so you can read exactly what is covered before you commit to anything.
Do I need to empty the garage before you start?
Yes, completely. We grind the whole slab wall to wall, so everything on the floor or standing against the walls has to be out before day one, including shelving and cabinets that are not fixed in place. Plan on the space being out of use for the install days plus the cure that follows. If clearing it out is a problem, say so at the estimate and we will work the timing out with you.
What is the difference between epoxy and polyaspartic, and why do you use both?
Epoxy stays workable longer, so it sinks into the profile we grind into the slab and gives us time to spread flake evenly across the whole floor. Polyaspartic cures fast and holds up to sunlight without fading or chalking, which bare epoxy will not do. We put epoxy down as the base coat and polyaspartic over the top, timed so the two bond and cure as one system rather than as two separate films. That timing is the whole reason our installs take two to three days instead of one.
We Work All Over the Puget Sound Area
Check the list below to see if we cover your city.